Rolex Guide: Models and Key Dates Through Time

Rolex is one of the world’s most iconic watch brands. This guide covers the most important models, historic milestones and specifications that make Rolex a true collector’s icon.

Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf in London, before moving to Geneva in 1919 where the brand still has its headquarters. Known for innovation, precision and timeless design, Rolex has created some of the most recognizable watches in the world.

The brand pioneered several breakthroughs. In 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. In 1931, it followed with the Perpetual automatic movement, a self-winding system still used in modern Rolex watches.

Today Rolex is both a status symbol and a tool. Many models were originally designed for professional use but have since become staples in the luxury and collector’s markets.

The most iconic Rolex models

Over the decades Rolex has introduced models that remain among the most sought-after worldwide:

  • Submariner (1953) – The archetypal dive watch with a rotating bezel and 300 m water resistance.
  • Daytona (1963) – A chronograph designed for motorsport, forever tied to the Daytona circuit.
  • Datejust (1945) – The first wristwatch with an automatically changing date window.
  • Day-Date (1956) – Known as “The President,” worn by world leaders, showing both day and date.
  • GMT-Master (1955) – Developed with Pan Am pilots, showing two time zones simultaneously.
  • Explorer (1953) – Built for expeditions, famous for its 3-6-9 dial and Everest connection.
  • Yacht-Master (1992) – A nautical-inspired sports model with a more luxurious design.

Key dates in Rolex history

  • 1905: Hans Wilsdorf establishes the company in London.
  • 1910: Rolex earns the first Swiss chronometer certificate for a wristwatch.
  • 1926: Launch of the Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch.
  • 1931: Invention of the Perpetual self-winding movement.
  • 1945: The Datejust debuts for Rolex’s 40th anniversary.
  • 1953: Explorer and Submariner are introduced.
  • 1955: GMT-Master is launched for Pan Am pilots.
  • 1956: Day-Date debuts as the first watch to spell out day and date in full.
  • 1960: The Rolex Deep Sea Special descends into the Mariana Trench with the bathyscaphe Trieste.
  • 1963: The Cosmograph Daytona is introduced.
  • 1992: Yacht-Master joins the collection.
  • 2022: Rolex acquires retailer Bucherer.

Quick facts on key models

Rolex Submariner (1953)

  • Function: Professional dive watch
  • Water resistance: Up to 300 m
  • Hallmarks: Rotating bezel, black or green dial
  • Note: Considered the world’s most iconic dive watch

Rolex Daytona (1963)

  • Function: Motorsport chronograph
  • Movement: Automatic, up to 72 hours power reserve in modern versions
  • Hallmarks: Tachymeter scale, three subdials
  • Note: Paul Newman Daytonas fetch record auction prices

Rolex Datejust (1945)

  • Function: Everyday watch
  • Innovation: First with an automatically changing date
  • Hallmarks: Jubilee bracelet, Cyclops magnifier
  • Note: Rolex’s most versatile model

Rolex Day-Date (1956)

  • Function: Luxury watch with day and date
  • Nickname: “The President”
  • Materials: Exclusively in precious metals
  • Note: Worn by statesmen and CEOs

Rolex GMT-Master (1955)

  • Function: Pilot’s watch
  • Hallmarks: Dual time zone display
  • Classic version: GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
  • Note: Created in partnership with Pan Am

Rolex Explorer (1953)

  • Function: Expedition watch
  • Hallmarks: 3-6-9 dial, robust case
  • Legacy: Linked to Everest expeditions
  • Note: Built for readability and durability

Rolex today

Rolex produces around one million watches annually and remains privately owned under the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. Demand for models like the Submariner and Daytona means waiting lists at authorized dealers can stretch for years.

At auctions, vintage Rolex watches are among the most valuable timepieces, with early Submariners and Paul Newman Daytonas achieving record-breaking prices. This dual role as both tool and investment underlines Rolex’s unmatched status in the watch world.

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